Travel Archives

Etna - fire and ice

We visited the stunning Etna National Park, and went as far up as we could, since the smoke was getting to be very noticeable and the rangers had left warnings in the middle of the road. We slowly came down the mountain watching the sun disappear behind it. As it got darker, what had appeared as a smoky trail was now clearly a stream of hot red lava.

We stopped in a very small town at the base of the vulcano. The main square looked like a terrace, and all of the residents had brought folding chairs and were sitting there, watching the eruption. Something so hot required a frozen refreshment, so we each an had an enormous Sicilian brioche filled with local gelato. I cannot remember which part of the evening was more impressive–watching the vulcano or biting into the ice-cream. They were both pink. And did I mention they are both Sicilian?

The recipe could not be easier.
Sicilian ice-cream sandwiches: cut your favorite brioche in half and stuff with gelato.
Amit loves the pistachio chocolate combination, but I prefer peaches and custard, and my dad swears by chocolate and whipped cream. Danin is still deciding: strawberry and apricot?

Sicily - Greek temples and olive trees

Near Agrigento, we went to see the 7 Greek temples that have sat on the same hill (I still don’t know why they call it the “valley of the Greek temples”) since the 5th century BC. It is such a peaceful, quiet spot. All you see are the rose-colored stone temples against the blue skies and blue sea, and all you hear is the wind. All around the temples there are huge olive trees that are probably as old as the temples. I read somewhere that they are over 2,000 years old. Speaking of olive trees, after the temples we drove to see the Nobile family who lives near Agrigento, and are happy to report that their extra virgin olive oil keeps getting better and better. We met Emanuele’s mother and took a walk around their beautiful olive groves on the hillsides that slope towards the sea. Sky, sea and wind. We love that.

Sicily - Palermo

In late May this year, Amit and I spent two weeks in Sicily to visit our olive oil producers and to taste as many island specialties as humanly possible. We flew to Rome to pick up my parents, then we all drove to Civitavecchia to board the overnight ferry to Palermo. Our trip was full of surprises.

 The views of the sea from the ship were gorgeous, especially the sunset. We toasted with a couple of Campari and soda (with a big orange slice) and then ate some of the best fried calamari I have ever had: tender, crispy and lemony. After dinner we discovered that the Mediterranean is small compared to an ocean, but can get just as angry. We went to lie down in our cabins and for the whole night I felt as though I were riding a cushioned rollercoaster. Interesting.

The next morning we were ready for Palermo. We had a few coffees on the deck and watched the coast get closer and closer until we docked, got back in the car, and looked for breakfast.

We had several melt-in your-mouth panelle, a kind of fried chickpea (garbanzo bean) pancakes, which brought back many happy memories of my aunt Rosellina, from the Sicilian branch of the Lucia family–my grandfather was born in Palermo. They are delicious and easy to make. They also happen to be completely gluten-free. People have them as a first course (usually not at breakfast.)

The recipe is below. There is a lovely demonstration by the chef of the Gambero Rosso: he’s an expert, and you might learn some Italian while watching him on youtube:

 Panelle Sicilliane U-Tube Video.

 We also listed the recipe on another page. Click here for the Panelle Sicilliane recipe.